Scientific Name: Elaphe guttata guttata
The Name:
The Okeetee corn snake is known as the "normal" corn snake under which there are various morphs of corn snakes. There are a few different stories of how the corn snake got its name years ago. Two theories stand in favor above most. One story is that the early Americans constantly found these snakes hunting rodents in the corn fields and corncribs, and so they called them corn snakes by association. The other story dictates the cream, orange, white, and black checker-patterned under belly of the snake reminded the people of colorful Native American corn. Both stories are carried in influential records.
Description:
Okeetee corn snakes are usually orange or brownish-yellow with black lined red or red-orange blotches down the middle of the dorsal side of their bodies. On the ventral side, there are alternating rows of black and white marks similar to a checkerboard pattern. Markings on the neck area of the corn snake are two stripes which come together at the top of the head to form a spear-like shape. Corn snakes are generally nine to fourteen inches as hatchlings and can reach lengths ranging from twenty-four to seventy-two inches in length at adulthood. Hatchlings are also not often as brightly colored as the adults. Considerable variation occurs though according to the age and native habitat of the corn snake.
General Information:
The average life span of Okeetee corn snakes in the captivity can be up to twenty-three years and is usually somewhere between fifteen and twenty years. This life span decreases significantly for corn snakes in the wild. These snakes prefer covered areas such as brush patches, rocky hillsides, and fields with high grasses such as corn fields. The environment they are most commonly found in is a warm, grassland or agricultural-type land where rodents and sunlight are abundant. The only really unique thing about corn snakes (not specifically Okeetees) is that they can be bred in so many different ways as to create so many different looking morphs. This species has some of the most morphs of any snake out there. Okeetee corn snakes and corn snakes overall are not endangered or in trouble of becoming so in the near future. Though Florida labels them as a "Special Species of Concern," this is only because their natural habitats are being destroyed in the Florida Keys. Some are mistaken for copperheads and killed, but many people breed them in captivity and keep them as pets.
Behavior:
Okeetee corn snakes, like all corn snakes, all primarily diurnal, or active in the day time hours. During this time, they happily search through abandoned buildings and climb trees in search of prey. However, you may notice in captivity, as is common when not hunting in the wild, that the corn snakes are quite secretive and will hide under paper or in any shaded area available such as an artificial cave in the cage. In the wild, the corn snakes will spend time in underground rodent burrows, under loose bark, or amongst rocks, logs, or brush. Still, healthy corn snakes will explore their surroundings daily; this includes flicking of the tongue to sense smells and moving about (unless a shed of skin is about to occur). Corn snakes are generally all well-tempered and easy to handle. It is still important to handle them from youth, so they remain used to human contact though. These snakes will rarely bite unless going for prey and hitting your finger instead. Like most snakes, these snakes are escape artists and are more active when warm or hungry. Upon being removed from the cage, the snakes display energetic and curious behavior. If threatened, the corn snake will rattle its tale and possibly even strike. However, I stress once again, this behavior is very uncommon in corn snakes who have been treated properly.
Subspecies:
The two subspecies of Elaphe guttata are Elaphe guttata guttata (the common corn snake) and Elaphe guttata emoryi (the Great Plains Ratsnake or Emory's Ratsnake). The common corn snake lives in the South eastern United States and has a brownish-orange body with orange or red saddles. These saddles are usually outlined in black, and the snakes ventral side contains white and black scales.
On the other hand, the Great Plains Ratsnake is found from Nebraska to Texas in the United States and even down into northern Mexico. This subspecies is characterized by a greyish-tan body with dark brown or grey blotching down its dorsal side and stripes on each side of the head that form a point between the eyes.
Distribution:
Okeetee Corn snakes were originally found in heavy population in regions of North and South Carolina in the United States. Now, corn snakes are found in all of the eastern United States ranging from southern New Jersey south through Florida, and west into Louisiana and parts of Kentucky. Yet, they are found in greatest abundance in the southeastern states- Florida in particular. Corn snakes are found in wooded groves, rocky hillsides, meadow lands, barns, and abandoned buildings (basically anywhere one would find shade or prey).
The the geographical distribution of the okeetee corn snake, also known as the red rat snake, is demonstrated by the pink region on the map above.
Keeping in Captivity:
The Okeetee corn snake is quite easy to care for in captivity and has no special needs in regards to nutrition, housing, lighting, breeding, or handling. These snakes are very nice tempered, easy to care for, and highly recommended as your first snake.
twelve to eighteen months, the snakes should be provided with a full size vivarium of at least 3ft long x 1ft deep x 1.5 ft high. Ultimately, the snake should be able to stretch its full body length diagonally across the cage.
Feeding- Okeetee corn snakes are carnivores, and in the wild, they will bite their prey and then constrict around them until they cease breathing before swallowing them whole. In contrast, it is best to feed them pre-killed, thawed out prey to avoid aggressive behavior or injury should the prey take a bite at the snake. Two pinky mice can be fed once a week to the snakes if they will eat them and this can be increased to fuzzy and small sized mice as the snakes grow in size. To thaw the mice, leave them out at room temperature or place them in warm water, but it is not recommended that you re-freeze mice because they can harbor bacteria. You can feed the snake both mice at once-once a week- or give the snake each mouse on a different day, feeding twice a week. Avoid handling the snakes within twenty-four hours after feeding because they may still be posed to strike and feed. Plenty of clean water should also be provided to avoid dehydration.
Substrates- A substrate is the material at the bottom of the cage, and one must assure it is not something the animal will ingest. Newspaper or kitchen roll is ideal, especially for young corn snakes, because they mess up their cage frequently and these substrates are easily removed and replaced with new substrate. These can be used for adults as well, and the snakes enjoy hiding beneath the newspaper for a feeling of security. Bark chips at three centimeters deep, aspen shavings, Astroturf, or outdoor carpeting can also be used though the last two will need to be changed frequently because they can trap moisture (leading to bacteria growth). These options are more naturalistic, but you should remove the reptile when feeding him to avoid ingestion. Do not use cedar shavings as they are toxic to corn snakes and cause respiratory problems.
Temperature/Lighting- Because corn snakes, like other snakes, do not make their own heat, it is important to maintain air temperature in the cage at about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit in the warm area of the cage (nearer to the light source). Proper warmth is important to healthy digestion and functioning of the immune system. There should also be a cool end of the cage where temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Including a thermometer on the inner upper region of the cage near the light source is a smart way to assure the temperature is not too high (this puts the snake at risk of drying out completely). A heating rock is one option for warmth, though a ceramic heat bulb is more commonly used-especially in larger vivariums. It is not necessary to vary the heat at night because the snake can escape to the cool side or hide in a shelter for cooler temperatures.
Corn snakes do not require ultraviolet light and in fact, should be kept away from direct light, particularly when babies, to avoid overheating. Lighting can enhance coloration though. Some keepers like to set their lights on a 12hour:12hour timer, and this is fine but not required. A regular light bulb of appropriate wattage can be used for smaller cages, but a fluorescent tube light can be used for larger vivaria. Increasing the length of days (light exposure) in the spring and decreasing the days (light exposure) in the winter may help regulate breeding behavior.
Reproduction:
Reproduction occurs after a short, winter cooling period as is the case for many snakes known as brumation. The male courts the female mostly with tactile and chemical cues, then ejects one of his hemipenes. This is then inserted into the female, and the male's sperm are released. Mating occurs from March to early May and eggs are laid from late May to July. Clutches range from 12 to 24 eggs that are slightly smaller than the average snake egg. After laying the eggs, usually rotting stumps, decaying vegetation, or other places with sufficient heat and humidity, the corn snakes cease caring for the eggs. The gestation period is sixty to sixty-five days at 82 degrees Fahrenheit, so the eggs hatch between July and September. The hatchlings will be ten to fifteen inches long and reach sexual maturity in eighteen to thirty-six months.
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